Before the 1800's, watercolor painting is done on any paper that is available. Normally, it will be very difficult to paint on heavy paper that is colorfast. A wrapping paper, a white paper or even tourist guide papers are common since the manufacture of watercolor paper were to come later.
Today, watercolor paper is manufactured well with formulation for specific watercolor applications. These applications are divided into attributes such as weight, color, size, furnish, permanence, packaging, dimension and color.
Weight - Grams per square meter (GSM) determine the weight of the watercolor paper. Depending on its density and thickness, the weight of the watercolor paper ranges from 280 to 640 gsm. To judge whether the paper is good to your application without even looking at the weight is to hold it on one edge and shake it vigorously. Paper with less weight will give a rubbery sound when rattled while papers with heavier grades will tend to give off a more metallic sound. Generally, heavier papers are excellent for water based applications although it is much more expensive.
Color – Most watercolor papers are pure white although sometimes they come with a slight tinge of beige and sometimes slightly yellowish. There are also watercolor papers today that are tinted and are available in all colors.
Furnish – The furnish of the watercolor paper is determined by the content or material from which the paper is made. The papers are made of cellulose extracted from plants notably, wood pulp, linen, and cotton. After extraction, the pulps are wetted, macerated, chemically treated and filtered and rinsed and poured into paper making moulds. The watercolor paper making machines are large cylinders fixed with metal wire screen mesh that gives the paper the texture of a wove. The wire mesh determines the coarseness or the smoothness of the wove produced.
Size and Dimensions – The sizes that are commercially available are:
Emperor sheet (40"x60"), double elephant (30"x40"), full sheets (22"x30"), half sheets (15"x22") and the quarter sheets (15"x11"). Watercolor paper sizes are also available as watercolor blocks or pads containing 20 sheets. A watercolor block comes in different sizes with its dimensions glued on the edges for portability.
Permanence – Every paper deteriorates eventually however, the best watercolor paper are the archival papers. These papers are entirely from 100% cellulose fibers whether made from linen or cotton. Because of these, papers are free of lignen. Archival papers will last for more than 100 years without significant deterioration like discoloration and brittleness.
Finishes – When you buy a watercolor paper, the finish is printed on a corner that tells you it's texture. There are three basic finishes that tells you the texture of the paper. The HP (hard pressed), the CP (cold pressed) and R for rough. Each texture works for particular applications. Work with hard pressed papers for smoother applications and textures.
Packaging – the packaging of the watercolor paper will give information regarding the attributes mentioned above, and how those attributes will work for a particular painting.
Following are watercolor painting tips for watercolor artists whose ability is beyond the basic skills and aiming to come out with good painting results and preserve their work for a very long period of time.
Paper quality
There are different kinds and grades of watercolor and watercolor paper, each has its own consistency and behaves differently. The quality of the watercolor painting is heavily influenced by the grade of paper that the painting is on. This is more pronounced when applying the techniques such as wet in wet and dry color lifting. Texture grade are also important consideration when applying a dry brush technique. The rule of the thumb when choosing a watercolor paper is that the more expensive and popular the brand used, the easier the work becomes for the artist because of the consistency and the high quality of materials that are used.
Working fast
There are a variety of effects that could be taken advantage when working fast. First, to regulate the paint flow will not allow the artist to rest until a particular aspect of the work is finished. The effects that are obtainable in working fast allows for better blending and mixing of colors that could never be done when the paint is allowed to thicken let alone dry. The same goes for color dominance, and the production of feathery, rugged edged and dreamy textures that only a watercolor could produce. Watercolor is not an easy medium to work on. But for those who will or have learned to regulate the flow of the paint, the wetness inherent to watercolor painting is actually a good control device.
Light fastness
Light fastness is also a major consideration when you want the painting preserved. Watercolor pigments have acquired a reputation for impermanence because unlike oil and acrylic that has protective binders, watercolors are painted directly on paper and is exposed. Because of this, that pigments do not retain its color and its brilliance overtime. Today though, major improvements have been done to retain lightfast watercolors which is indicated by a manufacturers numerical rating printed in the tube or the packaging.
The main reason that excellent watercolor paintings are considered less in value than oil or acrylic is its previous inability to hold its color. Today though, technological improvements are achieved for watercolor pigments that in fact, watercolor paintings with high light fastness rating painted on archival paper holds it colors and brilliance longer than oils and acrylics.
Tube or Pan
Choose tube. It is more difficult to achieve very dense color when you use a dry watercolor from a pan. It is also easier to keep raw colors in tubes. Minor difference but it counts for coming with very good, well preserved and well-defined colors. Other than that, there is no visible difference between a tube color and those that comes from pans.
Scumbling
While the preceding watercolor painting tips are relatively new, scumbling dates back to the practice of watercolor application in the 19th century. Otherwise known as dragging or crumbling the color, scumbling is loading a moist brush with large amounts of color and dragging the tuft lightly along the paper to produce different textures and are typically used by watercolorists with more advanced brush handling skills.
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